In the world of perfumery, where creativity meets craftsmanship, Habib Al-Suwaidi emerges as one of the influential figures who have shaped the landscape of luxury fragrances. With his deep expertise and unique vision, he has left his mark, drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of Eastern perfumery while ensuring his innovations align with the evolving preferences of fragrance enthusiasts.
In this exclusive interview, we delve into Habib Al-Suwaidi’s insights on the evolution of the fragrance industry, the influence of Eastern ingredients, and the reasons behind the decline in creativity in recent years.
He also shares his vision for the future of perfumery, the role of marketing in the success of fragrance brands, and his thoughts on major corporations acquiring niche perfume houses.
Join us on this fascinating olfactory journey with Habib Al-Suwaidi, where honesty and transparency reveal the essence of this captivating industry.
1. How have Eastern ingredients influenced Western perfumery?
Eastern ingredients have existed since ancient times and are fundamental to perfumery—myrrh, frankincense, amber, cardamom, clove, and benzoin musk, among many animalic materials. Europe does not naturally possess fragrant raw materials; most come from Eastern regions such as Yemen, Oman, Egypt, Tunisia, the Comoros Islands, as well as India and Indonesia, particularly before synthetic materials entered the perfume industry.One recent addition, however, is oud. Oud was largely unknown to European laboratories, primarily because no two extractions yield identical results. The quality of the wood, its age, and various other factors influence the final product. However, with modern plantation methods that inject bacteria into agarwood trees to accelerate oud production, we now have more consistent-quality oud oils across different batches.
2. What fundamental principles did you adhere to when creating a fragrance?
I always sought to present something new and innovative, something that would add to the world of perfumery and leave a distinct imprint. I was among the first to use Eastern ingredients extensively in my perfumes, particularly in the late 1980s, with an even stronger presence in the 1990s.
My mentors played a crucial role in shaping my approach to understanding Gulf markets. Among them were the great Arturo Landi, Pierre Bourdon, Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Roger Pellegrino, Alberto Morillas, Jean-Pierre Béthouart, and the dearly missed Francis Delmon. By the early 2000s, we had already laid the foundations for modern oriental perfumery and created the first oud-based compositions.
3. How has the fragrance industry evolved over the past 20 years?
I don’t believe there has been significant development in perfumery. In fact, I see a major decline. True creativity in men’s perfumery ended with the launch of Bleu de Chanel and Sauvage before 2010, and in women’s perfumery, the last truly original scent was La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme about a decade ago. Everything else on the market now is a flanker. I believe creativity has disappeared.
4. What is needed for the perfume industry to regain its former strength?
We need bold decision-making, moving away from market-driven studies. Major companies that have the capability to ensure a fragrance’s success through extensive marketing campaigns must take the lead in fostering true innovation.
5. When creating a perfume, did you prioritize mass appeal or unique artistry, regardless of public opinion?
No, I always considered the general taste of the market. I understood the needs of the Gulf audience, which longed for innovation and modernity while preserving its identity. None of the perfumes I created reflect my personal taste; instead, I focused on developing scent compositions that I would enjoy smelling on others, ensuring they stood out from existing offerings.
6. What is your opinion on clone fragrances, even when created by the original perfumer?
I do not like or endorse the concept of clones. Why seek alternatives when there are already excellent, reasonably priced perfumes that surpass even some global brands? The term “alternatives” was popularized by social media, but in reality, there is either an original fragrance or a mere copy. If a clone does not deviate by at least 50% from the original composition, it remains a mere imitation.
7. Who are your favorite perfumers, and who has influenced you the most in perfumery?
Many perfumers have inspired me, and it’s difficult to name just a few. Among those I have worked alongside are my mentor and friend Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Maurice Roucel, Carlos Benaïm, the esteemed Michel Almairac, Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier, François Demachy, Jean-Claude Ellena, the great Olivier Cresp, and my dear friend Dominique Ropion, whose contributions to our region have been significant.Among female perfumers, there are also notable figures such as Nathalie Lorson, Anne Flipo, Sophie Labbé, and Annick Ménardo. The next generation of perfumers holds great promise, with many rising talents among the approximately 600 perfumers worldwide.
8. What factors determine the quality and purity of a perfume?
The quality of raw materials and the composition of the fragrance itself are key. The best fragrances harmonize natural and synthetic ingredients while minimizing the use of diluents. High perfume concentration does not necessarily mean high quality. For example, Kouros was only 7% concentrated, yet it remains one of the most distinguished scents from the 1980s.
9. What defines a remarkable fragrance for you?
A great fragrance contains a high percentage of natural ingredients, has a unique composition, and adheres to global IFRA standards.
10. What are your favorite perfumes?
I love Dominique Ropion’s My Clementine, but I wouldn’t recommend anyone buy it without sampling it first. It is a citrus-based fragrance with floral and musky notes—perfect for emotional balance and refreshment. I personally don’t favor oud, but I will be launching an oud fragrance that I believe will be the best on the market. I have successfully refined natural oud in a unique way, blending it with amber and musk.
11. What do you think the future of perfumery holds?
This is a question we’ve been asking for 20 years, and there is still no clear answer. We live in the age of fast consumerism and social media, where everything moves at an accelerated pace. A perfume can launch today and feel outdated by tomorrow because of how quickly trends evolve.
12. What does it take to create a unique and exceptional fragrance?
Patience. Developing a high-quality fragrance takes time. Dominique Ropion took five years to finalize some of his perfumes, and there are compositions he continues to refine. Many global brands work on perfumes for years before releasing them. At Reine de Saba, we spent nearly two years on our latest fragrance, aided in part by the market slowdown, which gave us more time to make necessary adjustments.
13. Why have perfume prices risen, and what determines the cost of a luxury fragrance?
Today, a perfume’s wooden box often costs more than the juice inside. The term “niche” has become a marketing tool, inflating prices unnecessarily. However, there are still affordable, high-quality fragrances. Marketing, retail rent, and branding also contribute significantly to high costs.
14. Finally, from a business perspective, what is your opinion on L’Oréal acquiring a minority stake in Amouage?
Amouage is a prestigious Arab brand, and we have always been proud of it. If the acquisition rumors are true, it would be a setback, particularly if L’Oréal interferes in product development. Historically, L’Oréal has struggled to manage niche brands successfully, and there are numerous examples of niche houses that declined after being acquired by large corporations.
ThoughtsThrough this conversation with Habib Al-Suwaidi, we witnessed his deep passion for perfumery and his insightful perspectives on creativity, marketing, and quality. His candid reflections on the industry’s challenges and opportunities highlight his unwavering dedication to authenticity.In a world where fragrance has become a form of self-expression, figures like Habib Al-Suwaidi stand as guardians of genuine creativity, resisting the wave of mass-market repetition. As perfumery faces its evolving challenges, we look to true artisans to craft olfactory experiences that will be remembered for generations.
Thank you, Habib Al-Suwaidi, for this enriching discussion. We eagerly anticipate more of your unique contributions to the fragrance world.